Discover Sivas, a high-altitude Anatolian treasure where Seljuk architecture meets Thermal springs. Explore the Silk Road's legacy through ornate madrasas and authentic Turkish hospitality.
Sivas, Turkiye, sits at a high altitude of 1 275 metres on the Anatolian plateau, offering a rugged, authentic alternative to the coastal resorts of the Mediterranean. As a vital hub on the ancient Silk Road, the city preserves some of the most intricate Seljuk stonework in existence, including the UNESCO-listed Divriği Great Mosque. Whether you are drawn by the healing thermal waters of the Kangal Fish Spring or the political history of the Sivas Congress, this city provides a profound look into the soul of central Anatolia during the cooler months of late spring and early autumn.
Sivas is a living museum of Islamic architecture, specifically from the Seljuk and Ottoman eras. While Istanbul captures the grandeur of the later Empire, Sivas holds the keys to the 13th-century aesthetic, characterized by monumental stone portals and delicate geometric carvings. The functions as an open-air gallery, where three of the world’s most significant madrasas—medieval theological schools—stand within walking distance of each other. For history buffs, the lack of mass tourism means you can often stand in these ancient courtyards in near-silence, a rarity in modern Turkiye.
Beyond the architecture, Sivas offers a gateway to a unique natural phenomenon: the *Kangal Balıklı Kaplıca* (Kangal Fish Spring). Located roughly 90 kilometres from the city, these thermal pools are home to 'doctor fish' that treat skin conditions, drawing visitors from across the globe. The city also played a pivotal role in the formation of the modern Turkish Republic; it was here in 1919 that Mustafa Kemal Atatürk convened the Sivas Congress, effectively launching the War of Independence. This blend of medieval mysticism, natural healing, and modern political significance makes Sivas a layered destination for the discerning traveler.
Finally, Sivas is a culinary stronghold. The region is famous for its distinct take on Turkish staples, such as *Sivas Köftesi* (a specific flat meatball) and *Peskütan Çorbası* (a yogurt-based soup with split wheat). The cost of travel here remains refreshingly low compared to western Turkiye; you can dine in historic caravanserais converted into restaurants for a fraction of what a similar experience would cost in the UK or USA. It is a place where traditional Anatolian hospitality is not a gimmick but a daily reality, often involving endless glasses of *çay* (tea) offered by local shopkeepers in the *Şire Pazarı* (traditional market).
Due to its high altitude and inland location, Sivas experiences a continental climate with vast temperature swings between seasons. The most comfortable period for a visit is from late May to early October. During the peak summer months of July and August, daytime temperatures typically hover around 28°C to 32°C, but the low humidity makes the heat much more bearable than in Istanbul or Izmir. Crucially, even in summer, evenings in Sivas can be brisk, requiring a light jacket once the sun dips below the plateau horizon.
Winter in Sivas is formidable. From December through March, temperatures frequently plummet to -15°C, and heavy snow is the norm rather than the exception. While the city’s minarets look spectacular under a blanket of white, many rural attractions, including the mountain roads leading to Divriği, can become difficult to navigate. If you are visiting for the thermal springs, winter offers a surreal experience of bathing in 37°C water while snow falls around you, but for general sightseeing, the sub-zero temperatures can be a deterrent for those not accustomed to harsh continental winters.
Shoulder seasons—specifically May and September—are arguably the best times to visit Sivas. In May, the surrounding mountains are vibrant green, and the air is crisp and clean. September brings the harvest and slightly cooler, stable temperatures that are perfect for the extensive walking required to see the city's central monuments. You will also avoid the domestic tourism peaks that coincide with Turkish school holidays and religious festivals like *Ramazan Bayramı* (Eid al-Fitr), ensuring easier access to the best boutique hotels.
The majority of Sivas' architectural treasures are clustered around the central Republic Square (*Cumhuriyet Meydanı*), making the city remarkably walkable. However, the most famous site in the province requires a dedicated day trip. Here are the essential attractions you must include in your itinerary.
Built in 1271 by the Vizier of the Ilkhanid Empire, this madrasa is famous for its twin minarets that dominate the Sivas skyline. The facade is a masterpiece of Seljuk stonework, featuring intricate carvings of palm leaves, geometric patterns, and inscriptions. While the interior of the building has largely been lost to time, the standing portal remains one of the most photographed monuments in Anatolia. It serves as a testament to the city's importance as a cultural and educational hub during the 13th century.
The site is open 24 hours as it sits in a public plaza, though the best light for photography is in the late afternoon when the sun hits the stone facade directly. There is no entrance fee to view the exterior. Most visitors spend about 30 to 45 minutes here before moving across the square to the Shifaiye Madrasa. Located in the heart of the city, it is easily reached by any local bus heading to *Merkez* (Center).
Directly opposite the Çifte Minareli sits the Şifaiye Medrese, commissioned in 1217. Originally serving as a hospital and medical school, it is one of the oldest such structures in the Islamic world. Inside, the courtyard has been repurposed into a series of small shops and a peaceful cafe where you can drink tea amidst centuries-old stone. The highlight is the tomb of the Seljuk Sultan Izz al-Din Kaykaus I, located within the southern iwan, decorated with stunning turquoise and deep blue tiles that have retained their brilliance for 800 years.
Access to the courtyard and cafe is free, and the shops generally operate from 09:00 to 19:00. Spending an hour here allows you to appreciate the transition from a place of healing to a community space. It is centrally located on *İstasyon Caddesi*, the city’s main commercial artery. Check the small gift shops for handmade Sivas knives or carpets, which are local specialties.
Located a short 10-minute walk south of Republic Square, the Gök Medrese is named for the sky-blue tiles that once covered its towering minarets. Built in 1271, it recently underwent a multi-year restoration, reopening as a museum that showcases the scientific and religious history of the region. The portal here is even more ornate than its counterparts, featuring a "tree of life" motif and animal figures that are rare in traditional Islamic art of this period.
The museum is open daily from 09:00 to 17:00 (closed Mondays during winter). The entrance fee is approximately 100 TRY (as of late 2023). Plan for at least 90 minutes to explore the interior exhibits, which include astronomical instruments and calligraphic manuscripts. The walk from the is flat and passes several local bakeries where you can pick up *Sivas Katmeri* (a flaky pastry) for a few liras.
Completing the trio of central madrasas, the Buruciye Medrese was constructed during the reign of Ghiyath al-Din Kaykhusraw III. It is widely considered to have the most symmetrical and harmonious courtyard of all the Sivas monuments. Today, it serves as a cultural center where local artisans often demonstrate traditional arts like *Ebru* (water marbling) or calligraphy. The yellow-toned limestone used in its construction glows beautifully at sunset.
Like the Şifaiye, the Buruciye is free to enter and houses a pleasant cafe in its courtyard. It is open from 08:30 to 22:00, making it a great spot for an evening tea. It is located exactly between the Çifte Minareli and the Sivas Congress Museum. The atmosphere is academic yet relaxed, providing a quiet escape from the bustle of the nearby bazaar.
Housed in a grand late-Ottoman building that once served as a high school, this museum is where the foundations of the Turkish Republic were laid in September 1919. You can visit the actual room where Atatürk and his comrades made the decision to resist foreign occupation. The museum also contains a large section dedicated to Sivas' ethnography, featuring traditional costumes, weapons, and a stunning collection of Sivas carpets, which are famous for their high knot density and intricate floral patterns.
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday, 09:00 to 17:00. Entrance costs roughly 50 TRY to 80 TRY. It is located on the northern edge of Republic Square. For history enthusiasts, this is a non-negotiable stop; for others, the building's architecture and the carpet collection alone justify the 60-minute visit. It provides essential context for why Sivas remains such a proud and politically significant city in the Turkish consciousness.
This is the most famous natural attraction in the Sivas province, located near the town of Kangal, about 90 minutes south of the city. The thermal pools stay at a constant 37°C and are inhabited by two species of small fish (*Cyprinion macrostomus* and *Garra rufa*) that nibble away dead skin, particularly helping those with psoriasis. Even if you don't have a skin condition, the experience of sitting in the warm, mineral-rich water while hundreds of tiny fish interact with you is unforgettable.
There are separate sections for men and women, as well as mixed family pools. Entry for a day visit is approximately 250 TRY. The facility includes a basic hotel if you wish to stay overnight for a full treatment course (usually recommended for 21 days for therapeutic results). The easiest way to get here is by hiring a car or taking a *dolmuş* (minibus) from the Sivas central bus station (*Otogar*) to Kangal, then a short taxi to the springs. Spend at least 3-4 hours here to fully relax.
Sivas does not have a large "tourist district," so the best place to stay is near Republic Square (*Cumhuriyet Meydanı*). Staying in this central area ensures you are within walking distance of the major madrasas, the museum, and the best dining options. For those seeking luxury, there are a few high-end options like the The Green Park Sivas or the Buruciye Hotel, both of which offer modern amenities, indoor pools, and views over the historic. Prices for luxury rooms generally range from 3 000 TRY to 5 500 TRY per night, depending on the season.
Mid-range travelers will find excellent value in Sivas. Several business-oriented hotels, such as the Ramada by Wyndham or the Eretna Hotel, provide consistent quality, breakfast buffets, and reliable Wi-Fi for around 1 800 TRY to 2 800 TRY. These hotels are often located just off the main İstasyon Caddesi, putting you right in the middle of local life while maintaining a quiet atmosphere for sleep. If you prefer something with more character, look for boutique hotels housed in restored Ottoman mansions, though these are fewer in number compared to cities like Safranbolu or Amasya.
Budget travelers and backpackers should look for *Öğretmenevi* (Teachers' Houses) or small family-run hotels near the *Otogar* (bus station) or the train station. While these areas are a bit further from the historic sites (about a 20-minute walk), prices can be as low as 800 TRY to 1 200 TRY per night. Sivas is a university town, so there are also plenty of student-friendly apartments and basic guesthouses that offer clean, no-frills accommodation for those focusing their budget on experiences and day trips.
Eating in Sivas is an exercise in traditional Anatolian flavors. You cannot leave without trying *Sivas Köftesi*. Unlike the more famous *Izgara Köfte* found elsewhere, the Sivas version contains only ground beef and salt, relying on the quality of the local high-plateau meat for flavor. It is typically served with charred peppers and thin *lavaş* bread. Head to *Köfteci Kirli Ahmet* or *Besler Köfte*, both local institutions where a full meal will cost you between 250 TRY and 400 TRY. These spots are busy, loud, and represent the heart of Sivas food culture.
For a more atmospheric dining experience, visit the *Çerkez’in Kahvesi* or the restaurant inside the *Taşhan* (Stone Inn). The Taşhan is a 16th-century caravanserai that now houses shops and a beautiful courtyard restaurant. Here, you can try *Peskütan Çorbası*, a warm, hearty soup made from a specific type of fermented yogurt, or *Sivas Mantısı*, which is larger and more rustic than the tiny dumplings found in Kayseri. A dinner for two in these historic settings, including appetizers and drinks (usually *ayran* or tea), typically falls in the 800 TRY to 1 200 TRY range.
Sivas is also famous for its bakeries. In the mornings, look for *Sivas Katmeri*—a rich, flaky, buttery pastry that is often eaten with honey or cheese. You will see locals lining up outside small neighborhood ovens (*fırın*) early in the morning. For dessert, try the *Hurma Tatlısı*, a date-shaped pastry soaked in syrup. For a modern caffeine fix, the area around the university and Cumhuriyet University campus has seen an explosion of specialty coffee shops, though a traditional *Türk kahvesi* (Turkish coffee) in the courtyard of a 13th-century madrasa remains the quintessential Sivas experience.
For visitors coming from the UK or US, the journey to Sivas almost always involves a connection in Istanbul. Turkish Airlines and Pegasus operate multiple daily flights from Istanbul Airport (IST) and Sabiha Gökçen (SAW) to Sivas Nuri Demirağ Airport (VAS). Flight times from Istanbul are approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. From London (LHR/LGW), Manchester (MAN), or New York (JFK), you can typically find round-trip fares to Sivas via Istanbul; it is highly recommended to compare live prices across different carriers to find the best layover times. Alternatively, the new High-Speed Train (YHT) now connects Ankara to Sivas in just over 2.5 hours, making it an excellent option if you are combining Sivas with a stay in the Turkish capital.
Once you arrive at Sivas Nuri Demirağ Airport, the Havaş shuttle bus is the most efficient way to reach the. The buses are timed to coincide with flight arrivals and will drop you near Republic Square or the main bus station for a very reasonable fee (under 100 TRY). Taxis are also available at the airport; a ride to the center takes about 25-30 minutes and should be metered, costing roughly 450 TRY to 600 TRY depending on the time of day and fuel prices. For travelers coming by bus from other Anatolian cities like Kayseri or Erzurum, the *Otogar* is located about 3 kilometres from the center, easily accessible by a short taxi ride or local city bus.
Within Sivas, your own two feet are the best mode of transport for sightseeing, as the major historic sites are concentrated in a compact pedestrian-friendly zone. For longer distances, such as reaching the Gök Medrese or the train station, the city has an extensive network of public buses and *dolmuşes*. You will need to purchase a rechargeable *Kentkart* to use the city buses, which can be bought and topped up at small kiosks near major stops. Ride-hailing apps are not as prevalent here as in Istanbul, so relying on official yellow taxi stands is the standard for private transport. Car rentals are available at the airport and are highly recommended if you plan to visit the Divriği Great Mosque or the Kangal Fish Spring independently.
The absolute priority for a day trip is the **Divriği Great Mosque and Hospital** (*Divriği Ulu Cami ve Darüşşifası*). This UNESCO World Heritage site is located about 175 kilometres from Sivas. Built in 1228, it is renowned for its four magnificent portals, each featuring distinct, three-dimensional stone carvings that are unlike anything else in the world. The journey takes about 3 hours by car or 4 hours by the regional train (*Raybüs*), which is a scenic way to traverse the rugged Anatolian landscape. Note that the mosque has undergone extensive restoration, so check local status before departing.
Another worthy excursion is **Şarkışla**, the birthplace of the famous Turkish folk poet and minstrel Aşık Veysel. You can visit the Aşık Veysel Museum, which is housed in his former home and showcases the life of this blind musician who became a symbol of Turkish folk culture. The drive takes about an hour and offers a look at the more rural, agricultural side of the Sivas province. For nature lovers, **Tödürge Lake**, located 70 kilometres east of Sivas on the road to Erzincan, is a beautiful spot for bird watching and a picnic, especially during the spring migration season.
Finally, if you have not had enough of thermal waters, the **Sıcak Çermik** (Hot Spring) is only 30 kilometres from the. It is more of a traditional Turkish spa experience compared to the fish springs of Kangal. The water here is rich in sulfur and bicarbonate, believed to be beneficial for rheumatism and joint pain. It is easily accessible by local minibus from the Sivas central station, making it a perfect half-day trip for those looking to unwind after exploring the city’s stone monuments.