Uncover the Mediterranean charm of Alexandria, Egypt’s storied second city where Greco-Roman ruins meet elegant corniche walks and world-class libraries. From the Citadel of Qaitbay to the modern Bibliotheca Alexandrina, discover the best of the 'Pearl of the Mediterranean'.
Alexandria, Egypt, sits on the edge of the Mediterranean, offering a salty-breeze alternative to the desert heat of Cairo and the Nile Valley. Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BCE, this city was once the intellectual heart of the ancient world, home to the legendary Pharos Lighthouse and the Great Library. Today, it is a bustling metropolis of nearly six million people where faded 19th-century European architecture meets vibrant Egyptian street life, making it an essential stop for travelers seeking history without the overwhelming crowds of Giza. With mild Mediterranean winters and a legendary seafood scene, the 'Pearl of the Mediterranean' remains the most cosmopolitan corner of the country.
Unlike the pharaonic grandeur of Luxor or the chaotic energy of Cairo, Alexandria exudes a distinctly Mediterranean character. Its long, curved *Corniche* (waterfront promenade) is the city's pulse, where locals gather to smoke *shisha* (water pipe), drink mint tea, and watch the waves crash against the tetrapods. For the history enthusiast, Alexandria is a layer cake of civilizations. You can stand in the shadow of a Roman triumphal column in the morning, explore a 15th-century Islamic fortress in the afternoon, and end your day in a hyper-modern library that pays homage to the city's ancient scholarly roots.
The city also offers a sensory reprieve. The air is cooler here, the light has a soft, painterly quality that inspired writers like E.M. Forster and Lawrence Durrell, and the pace of life—while still Egyptian in its intensity—feels somewhat more measured. It is a city of grand old cafes like Trianon and Délices, where the decor hasn't changed since the 1920s, providing a nostalgic glimpse into the era when Alexandria was a multilingual hub for Greeks, Italians, Jews, and Armenians. For those who want to see an Egypt that looks outward toward Europe rather than inward toward the desert, Alexandria is unmissable.
The climate in Alexandria is significantly different from the rest of Egypt. While Upper Egypt swelters, Alexandria stays temperate. The best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons of spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). During these months, temperatures typically hover between 20°C and 26°C (68°F to 79°F), providing ideal conditions for walking between the outdoor ruins and the waterfront. The sky is usually clear, and the humidity is manageable, unlike the heavy air of mid-summer.
Winter (December to February) in Alexandria is a unique experience. While most of Egypt remains dry, Alexandria receives the bulk of the country's rainfall. It can be surprisingly chilly, with temperatures dropping to 10°C (50°F) at night, and fierce Mediterranean storms—known locally as *Nawa*—can bring dramatic waves crashing over the sea wall. However, visiting in winter has its charms: the city is far less crowded, and the sight of the misty Mediterranean from a cozy wooden booth in an old cafe is quintessential Alexandria. Conversely, July and August should be avoided if you dislike crowds; these months see millions of domestic tourists from Cairo fleeing the heat, sending hotel prices soaring and making the Corniche almost impassable.
Alexandria’s attractions are spread along the coast and tucked into the dense neighborhoods of the. Exploring the city requires a mix of walking and short taxi rides, but the rewards are some of the most unique archaeological sites in the world. From sunken palaces to subterranean tombs, the 'Alex' experience is about discovering what lies beneath the modern surface.
Completed in 2002, this stunning piece of modern architecture is a reimagining of the ancient Great Library of Alexandria. The main reading room can hold eight million books and is sheltered by a giant tilted sun disk. The exterior walls are carved with characters from 120 different scripts. Beyond the books, the complex houses four museums, a planetarium, and several art galleries. It is the cultural heart of the modern city and a symbol of Alexandria's enduring commitment to knowledge.
Located in the Shatby neighborhood along the Corniche, the library is open Sunday to Thursday from 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM, and Saturday from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM (closed Fridays). Entry for international tourists is 300 EGP. It is easily reachable by any taxi or the blue tram. Allow at least three hours to explore the Manuscript Museum and the Antiquities Museum located in the basement.
This 15th-century defensive fortress stands on the exact site of the ancient Pharos Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Built by Sultan Al-Ashraf Qaitbay to protect the city from the advancing Ottoman Empire, the citadel actually incorporates stones from the ruined lighthouse into its structure. Walking through its thick limestone walls and looking out through the narrow slits at the Mediterranean gives a powerful sense of the city's strategic importance.
The citadel is located at the western end of the Corniche in the Anfushi district. It is open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and tickets cost approximately 150 EGP for foreigners. The walk from the entrance to the fortress offers some of the best views of the Alexandria skyline. You can reach it by taking a taxi to the very end of the Corniche road. Half an hour is sufficient for the interior, but an hour allows for a slow walk around the ramparts.
Regarded as one of the Middle Ages' seven wonders, these catacombs are a fascinating blend of Egyptian, Greek, and Roman architectural styles. Discovered by accident in 1900 when a donkey fell through a shaft, the three-tiered necropolis dates back to the 2nd century CE. The most striking feature is the central spiral staircase and the 'Caracalla Hall', where the motifs combine traditional Egyptian gods with Roman clothing and hair styles. It is an eerie, cool, and deeply atmospheric site.
The catacombs are located in the Karmouz district. They are open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, with entry around 150 EGP. Because the lower levels are sometimes flooded by groundwater, it’s best to wear sturdy shoes. It is a bit far to walk from the Corniche, so a taxi or Uber is the best way to get there. Plan to spend about 45 to 60 minutes underground.
Despite its name, this massive 26-meter red Aswan granite column has nothing to do with Pompey; it was actually erected in 297 CE to honor Emperor Diocletian. It stands on the site of the Serapeum, once a magnificent temple and a 'daughter library' to the Great Library of Alexandria. Today, only the pillar and a few sphinxes remain above ground, but the subterranean galleries where the sacred Apis bulls were buried are still accessible and well worth a visit.
Located very close to the Catacombs in Karmouz, these two sites are often visited together. Entry is roughly 100 EGP. The site is open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM. It is a stark, exposed site with little shade, so visit early in the morning. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to see the pillar and the underground tunnels.
Right in the heart of modern Alexandria lies the only Roman amphitheater discovered in Egypt. This 13-row marble theater was unearthed in the 1960s when the government was looking for a site to build a new apartment block. The site also contains the 'Villa of the Birds', which features incredibly well-preserved floor mosaics from the Hadrianic era. It serves as a quiet park in the middle of a noisy city, offering a glimpse into the daily leisure life of Roman-era Alexandrians.
Kom El Deka is located near the Misr Train Station (the main rail hub). It is open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM, and entry is 100 EGP. It is an easy walk from the downtown shopping district or the train station. You can see the entire site in about an hour, including the mosaics and the small open-air museum of statues salvaged from the harbor.
At the eastern end of the city lie the sprawling 150-acre gardens of the Montaza Palace. Built as a summer retreat for the Egyptian royalty, the grounds feature lush groves of date palms, Mediterranean pines, and beautifully manicured flower beds. While the main Al-Haramlik Palace (built in 1932 in a pseudo-Florentine style) is not open to the public as it is a presidential residence, the gardens and the private beaches are a favorite escape for locals. It’s the perfect place for a sunset picnic or a long walk away from the city's traffic.
The gardens are located about 15km east of the. Entry to the park is approximately 25 EGP. It is best reached by taxi or Uber, which will take about 30-40 minutes from downtown. Open 24 hours, though most visitors go during daylight. You can easily spend an entire afternoon here wandering the paths and crossing the bridge to the small tea island.
Choosing where to stay in Alexandria depends on whether you want the nostalgic charm of the old city or the resort-style luxury of the eastern suburbs. The **Downtown (Mahatet El Raml)** area is the soul of the city. Staying here puts you within walking distance of the best historic cafes, the Roman Amphitheatre, and the waterfront. This area is home to iconic heritage hotels like the Steigenberger Cecil, which has hosted everyone from Winston Churchill to Al Capone. It is perfect for those who want to be in the middle of the action and don't mind the constant hum of the city.
For a more tranquil experience, head east to **Saba Pasha or Gleem**. These are upscale residential neighborhoods where you’ll find international chains like the Four Seasons at San Stefano. This area offers luxury shopping malls and private beaches, providing a shield from the city's grit. If you are a history buff who wants to wake up to a view of the sea without the downtown congestion, **Zizinia** and **San Stefano** are the best mid-range to luxury choices. Budget travelers should look for small pensions and guesthouses in the side streets around the **Corniche** near the Library, where prices are low and the views are still magnificent. Check hotel deals online to compare the heritage properties with the modern high-rises.
Alexandria is the undisputed seafood capital of Egypt. The tradition here is to visit a restaurant where you select your fish from a bed of ice, pay by weight, and choose your cooking style—either *Singari* (grilled with herbs and oil) or *Radda* (grilled with bran). **Fish Market** on the Corniche offers a classic experience with sweeping views of the harbor, while **Greek Club** (located near the Citadel) provides a more refined atmosphere and some of the best calamari in the city. Expect to pay between 500 and 1 000 EGP for a high-end seafood feast for two.
Beyond the sea, Alexandria's cafe culture is legendary. A visit to **Trianon** or **Délices** at Mahatet El Raml is a rite of passage; these grand establishments serve excellent pastries and coffee in rooms that feel like 1930s Paris. For street food, try **Alban Swisra** in the Camp Cesar neighborhood, which is famous for its decadent melted cheese dishes, or grab a *Kebda Iskandarani* (Alexandrian-style liver) sandwich from a street vendor for under 50 EGP. The flavors here are sharper and spicier than in Cairo, often featuring more garlic and chili, reflecting the city's Mediterranean proximity.
The primary way to navigate Alexandria is via the **Corniche**, the 15km road that hugs the coastline. For short hops along this route, the iconic yellow and blue trams are a nostalgic—if slow—option. The yellow trams serve the western and central parts of the city, while the blue 'Raml' trams serve the eastern suburbs. They are incredibly cheap (under 10 EGP), but they can be very crowded during rush hour. For most tourists, **Uber or Careem** (the regional equivalent) are the most reliable and transparent ways to get around, as they eliminate the need to negotiate fares with taxi drivers.
Walking is the best way to explore the central **Mahatet El Raml** and **Mansheya** districts, where the streets are narrow and filled with markets. However, to get from the to sites like the Montaza Gardens or the Citadel, a car is necessary. If you choose to use the standard black-and-yellow taxis, always agree on a price before getting in; a typical cross-city trip should range between 40 and 100 EGP. For arrival, if you are coming from Cairo, the 'Special' or 'Talgo' trains are the most comfortable and scenic way to reach Alexandria, arriving at the Misr Station in the heart of the city. Compare flights to Borg El Arab Airport (HBE) if you are coming from outside Egypt, though many visitors find it easier to fly into Cairo and take the train.
While Alexandria has plenty to keep you occupied, its location makes it a great base for exploring the north coast. A popular day trip is to **Rosetta (Rashid)**, located about 65km east. This is the town where the famous Rosetta Stone was found. It features beautiful Ottoman-era houses with intricate brickwork and the point where the Nile meets the Mediterranean. The journey takes about 1.5 hours by private car. Another option is the **El Alamein War Museum and Cemeteries**, located about 2 hours west. This site is a moving tribute to the major WWII battles fought here and is a must for history buffs. Finally, the **Wadi El Natrun** monasteries, located halfway to Cairo, offer a glimpse into the early roots of Coptic Christianity and are accessible in about 90 minutes from Alexandria.